Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
